Veterinary Aspects Of Pot-Bellied Pigs As Pets

Housing

• Indoors – need to be housetrained, and can be destructive, causing much damage.
• Are very sensitive with regards to environmental temperatures and prone to Hypothermia and hyperthermia (21 – 23C is a comfortable range for them)
• Outdoors pen – should have access to grass grazing and will root around (destructive in a garden!), must provide some shelter / shade. Any fencing must be very secure (“pig fencing”)
• Pigs do not have sweat glands and need some form of wallowing pond in order to cool down – may become an issue when go indoors again!
• Separate clean drinking water must be provided (tend to urinate in wallow!)
• Pigs are basically Herd animals and become bored very easily if left on own and become destructive – might need to keep more than one.

Diet

• One of the biggest problems is insufficient fibre which leads to constipation.
• Commercial pig food is often too fattening as usually used incorrectly – can use Sow&Boar (S&B) but need to limit intake (½ cup per 12kg per day – depending on condition score);
• Young piglets can be fed a commercial creep feed – usually ad lib up to 6 weeks of age and thereafter grower to 3 months (1-1½ cups per day over 3 feedings); from 3 months switch gradually over to the S&B
• NEVER dog pellets – very high in protein and low in fibre and may cause gastric ulcers and constipation.
• Limit the snacking, especially if high in salt!
• Grazing, horse ration, fruits, vegetables, Lucerne, hay and kitchen scraps can be fed, but avoid fatty foods such as dairy products, ice cream, cakes etc.
• Fresh vegetables can make up to 25% of intake, but beware of high starches such as potatoes and not too much fruit (tend to be high in sugars) – not more than ⅓ fruit to ⅔ vegetables
• Feed a maximum of 3% of body weight, divided into 2 – 3 feeds per day
• If become overweight, first reduce the fruit, any snacking, then the veg and finally the meal.
• Avoid begging – they become pests and don’t feed from the fridge – soon learn how to open and help themselves!

Breeding

• Puberty about 6 – 7 months
• Heat every 21 days, lasts three days
• Litter size 4 – 12
• Should be sterilized at 2 – 4 months (spay or anti-GnRH vaccine)
• Boars develop a strong smell after maturity.

Training

• Can be trained to use a litter box
• Walk on a leash attached to a harness
• Use only positive reinforcement
• May become aggressive if punished
• Teach young pigs to be picked up or you will not be able to pick up the adult
• They will squeal when picked up, wait until they stop before you put them down

General Care

• Soft brush for daily grooming
• Hooves must be trimmed (start when very young!)
• Tusks can be trimmed in piglets, and removed at four months
• Ears should be cleaned with alcohol and cotton balls if they become very dirty
• Deworm twice a year

Behaviour Problems

• Sows when in oestrus
• Boars are aggressive
• Excessive squealing
• Separation anxiety
• Destructiveness
• Aggression

Handling at the Vet

• Elastoplast makes a good muzzle, so does a stocking
• Blood can be taken from the ear, cephalic vein or jugular veins
• Vaccinations in the back of the neck
• Pigs may slip on the floor

Diseases